|
Welcome in Laos
From Taunggyi to Kengtong in Myanmar to Border town Tachilek
In Thailand to Mae Sa and Chiang Rai to Philanulok and Khon Kaen where we turn North to Laos and Vientiane
It was the 9-4-08 we transited into Thailand on our way to Laos and Vientiane the capital, Not much had happen on route. We were in
Highway No1 South, driving 100 km/h which, as far as we remember we did it last between Islamabad and Lahore in Pakistan. The
bad roads the feared "fall ins" which strain tiers, springs and body were no more. Gone they are and hopefully for good. Nothing but
straight fine double lane as one expect in Europe. On the roadside a temple with this weird creature half man halve woman which we
share with you. The king of Thailand looked gracefully from the picture.
From Mae Sa Southbound to Chiang Rai where we put up for the night, parked JAMBO safely and went to sleep.
 
we liked to know more but no one understood us This gateman is a rubber figure
 
The king, loved by all Thais Help us dear reader if you know whom HE/SHE represents
Thursday 10-4-08
Updating the Web site took us until noon, on fine roads further South, turned East we reached in the night a petrol station and slept in
JAMBO. It was hot. Not before I chased a Mosquito for an hour , which after few minutes as we almost sleeping, flew around the ear
again . "SSSSST" Torchlight on. "Where is he? gone again." Finally he ended his bloodsucking life on a curtain where my hand hit him
decisively. The bloodstain is proof.
Friday 11-4-08
 
Early up , two hours later we were at Khon Kaen and directed JAMBO North, we had only 200 km more to the border. A fine breakfast
in the morning sun, open the bright day for us. The INDOCHINA NEW YEAR is arriving, and the water festival, therefore many Lao's
working in Thailand were heading home in whatever transport available. To meet their family, some drunk already, enduring the journey
on the back of a truck.
 
By 11:00 am we were at the border and met an Official send by our Embassy to help us through border formalities on the Lao side.
A kind gesture.  
Line up for the border chop and over the Mekong bridge, into Laos We rushed, as the Embassy is closed for a few days until the 16th because of the new year and we would not have been able to
make the usual Flag picture with them. Therefore our first short stop was a hotel to clean up and then we went straight to the
Embassy.  
On our Embassy gate and the first photo with the remaining Brunei staff
The Laos Ambassador was just transferred to India. (We are sorry for his health). There are only three Brunei officers left. One was on
maternity leave. Left are two. Ms Ani Zuraini Dato Paduka Hj Abdul Aziz and Pg Madihi Pg Hj Omar.  
the "all staff" photo and our "Charge de Affairs" Ani Zuraini She is by far and wide the most beautiful Charge de Affairs we have seen on route, of all Embassies. Including the Foreign too.
The daughter of the former Brunei Ambassador to Canada and Seoul (Korea) she will surely have a bright carrier ahead. Thank you for
receiving us, thank you for sending an officer to the border,
thank you for the correspondence before, and your kind welcome. It was a pleasure indeed to meet these friendly officers.
Within 25 minutes we were on the way in Vientiane, gratefully off course, as we got a car from the Embassy to show us around.
So, this is Laos and we are here! Country number 33. The landlocked Lao people's Republic as it is officially known, covers just
235,00 sq.km, consisting mostly of rugged mountains and narrow river valleys.
Most rivers flow into the Mekong the border with Myanmar and later the one with Thailand. It was the hinterland of Indo China,
during the colonial period. The French concentrated on the resources of Vietnam considering Laos (and Cambodia) the backwaters
without much attention. But one must say it was never forgotten by the military.
Communist Vietnam used the Ho Chi Min trail through Laos to supply its forces in the South, while the US waged a viciously
destructive secret war against the Vietnamese army and its Lao allies. More on this at a later stage. Academic opinion differ as to
the origin of Tai speaking people. not much is know of the early movements and way of life. They gradually expanded in 800 AD from
China Southwards. About 1200 AD, they emerged across a broad belt of land from the Shan state ( east Myanmar) Northern Thailand
and Laos. Then in the 14th century, the kingdom of Lan Xang was established. However powerful neighbors made life not easy for the
people and Lan Xang plunged into a period of fragmentation and decline, and unfortunately for Laos the Siamese established a
hegemony thought Siam and Laos, their armies occupying Vientiane and other areas. Wars were fought and Laos was almost
partitioned between Thailand (Siam) and Vietnam but the French arrived in 1858 and history took another course. 50 years of war had
devastated Laos. Vientiane was overgrown with jungle.
Then the Haw from Yunnan, rebels out of the Qing Empire fleeing South, crossed the border to Laos in ever increasing numbers. These
guys armed, ruthless with nothing to loose, looted and killed at will. When the French withdraw in 1953 Laos gained independence as a
constitutional monarchy. But in 1954 the US arrived and begun to fill the coffer of the Royal Lao Government here in Vientiane.
Between 1963 and 1973 large areas of Laos suffered massive bombing of which most of the world knew nothing. The Chinese were
active too. Laos became battleground. Although legally prohibited (have they ever cared for legality?) the US intervened secretly
backing the Royalist forces, Laos was torn apart by civil war involving Chinese, Vietnamese and US backed forces. Then -we have
plenty bombs on stockpile at military bases in the US -, by 1973 nearly 600.000 "sorties" that is killing from the sky, were flown over
Laos. "Mr. President we must bomb Laos and the Ho Chi min Path!" The war mongers might have suggested.
In average, one planeload of bombs every 8 minutes, 24 hours a day for nine years. Dear reader does it turn your stomach upside
down? Two million tons of bombs were dropped on this tiny landlocked country. 500 kg explosives for every person in Laos. (1/2 kg is
enough to blow a wall down).
It was to no avail. The single most expensive covered action of the US ended in failure. IN 1975 the communists took over Vientiane.  
500 lbs "US presents" from the sky Saturday 12-4-08 The Kilometer counter showed 47.739 km, since JAMBO left Brunei. It is more than one time around the world on the way home.
What a fine machine and JAMBO the car had been in Mecca and Medina too. Are we going to auction JAMBO when back in
Brunei? Sell it to the Government to be kept in the Museum for our youth to see in the years to come? We do not know.
We had lunch on the riverbank and encountered here the first, and maybe the finest crickets, fried and ready to be consumed. Deep
fried crickets? from the price a delicacy. What you mean "disgusting!" Three dollars we paid for them and took them "Tapau." Whether
we tried one or more, must remain a secret.   
Song of the day: " Yati smiling "Cheese", finger liking cricket "sticked" in the teeth..." The good heart of our queen contributed heavily to the handicapped center . But it was Py Mai Lao, the water festivity. Which is to
brings luck. A few pictures of two kindhearted Queens, a not so sober director, who could hardly hold himself, teachers drunk and
wet, was all what we saw. Never mind, maybe another time.  
Working hard the whole year. But today enjoying karaoke, dance, water and beer  
Here our Queens of days long gone, inspecting the Institute and the filled up director "musch hav Ethorithi letta to vischit"
We went to the Buddha park a 20 km away suppose to be a tourist attraction but after Myanmar, no attraction to us, are these
images made from concrete, bricks and mortar, passing the "Arc of Triumph", we mean the victory gate standing now 50 years.  
any resemblance with Paris is pure coincidence The "That Luang" the sacred stupa of Vientiane  
King Fangum united Laos The last king Cy Sa Wang Wong Watana
 
The world is represented by this ball shaped construction, to be entered through the mouth. Heaven is up, down is hell. Naturally
everyone climbed up and out.  
the sleeping Buddha and protected by seven (again seven?) cobras  
a few monks are left in Laos compared to Myanmar, communism takes it's toll the youth go with western ideas
Saturday draws to an end, from every corner of town there is music and laughter, it is the Py Mai Lao, the new Year.
This evening we are invited for dinner. And by 8:00 pm we sat in a fine fish restaurant, together with the Charge de Affairs, Ms Ani.
It was a eventful evening ,lots of talk and fine cuisine. The hours fly fast and back in the hotel we packed already for tomorrow. 
Sunday 13-4-08 We left early towards North. An estimated 6 hours drive to Xieng Kuhang Province, and the provincial capital, Phonsavan, Our map
showed a new road, a shortcut and we intended to use it. Hartmut a friend of ours was consulting engineer and the overseer of road
projects here for several years and perhaps this was one of his projects. He had some hair-raising stories to tell.  
overland taxi North of Vientiane The uncompleted bridge
The road was fine, new, straight, and smooth. We had to divert at an uncompleted bridge, and were shortly after stopped by four
uniformed men. Maybe police or army, greenish khaki and Russian plate cap. "What?" Harun asked the approaching officer, He can
do that with a sour face. The guy had a pip and a strip. Energetically he directed us twice to the road side, until Harun reluctantly
obeyed. Now all four of them came from all sides and babbled something among themselves, which we did not understand.
Then one of them peered into JAMBO and realized the load and conversion of our vehicle. He shouted something and directed us to
get out from the car at once. You know this body gesture practiced over and over in police or army school?
We refused. "No" said Harun.
He was now trying to open the locked door himself. It was the same as long ago in Africa, If these guys, knowing nothing else than to
shoot, make baby, count to 30 for the day of the next salary, and living with hungry belly, if they would see our electronic equipment,
the laptops, cameras, the sat phone, the tracker and GPS, we are in the soup indeed.
There is likeliness we are considered suppliers of guerrillas and bandits still quiet common here, or spies and brought to the
headquarter and maybe our equipment is confiscated by the boss for the authorities against a handwritten paper. They just keep it as
we have to leave the country one day. And sell it maybe afterwards, and the car too.
Knowing all this we realized, how close we were. Then, Harun made the "upset show". He shouted in English, slam the map to the
dash board and before they realized what was going on, engaged gear, made a swinging turn, too fast for them to block the road and
we drove off, in high speed out of eventual trouble. Maybe they call by radio assistance, maybe they do nothing. We did not know.
Once we are on the main road where people are many, any action against foreigners becomes difficult for them. After 20 minutes we
reached the main road and continued our journey to Xieng Khuang.
We passed a region with abundance of Limestone mountains- likely caves too, and decided to check it out. As mentioned it was New
Year, most Lao's had holidays. The Restaurant under the 500 m high cliffs was busy, a band made music a girl sung, no, rather she
screamed out of tune. Families enjoyed eating, drinking, sitting in the water.
After paying 10.000 kip we were allowed to park and looked for a cave, which was in the vicinity. But a group of youngsters had control
over it. If we only pay 10.000 kip again fore each of us we would be allowed in. That was too much for us in an economy which trust
not their own money. Why else is Bath the Thai cash, and US dollar welcome?  
the river flowing from the caves looking good, singing bad  
A cool idea to have benches in the stream
 
on the way to the caves yesterday the goat was alive...
The limestone outcrops, mountains like the Mulu ridge in Sarawak continued for another 100 km. There must be plenty unexplored
caves. The country has Eco tourism potential here.  
Limestone mountains and folks at the Phu Khon Junction  
Vertical cliffs typical limestone formations Out of the gorge flows a crystal clear stream
 
Mountain kids see the white pebble on the bonnet? It is ice. Further Northward we went climbing two more passes and at Luang Prabang turning East driving for another three hours. Into a
thunderstorm and hailing, ice fell from the sky. Gosh we move slowly that the ice balls do not smash our windscreen.
Phonsavan the present day provincial capital had a good hotel for a reasonable price. Every one was in festivity mood. Shops closed,
petrol stations too. People lined the streets, dancing and water splashing with buckets and hoses. It was a happy time for them.
We had reached around 5:00 pm, it was still enough daylight to visit the very reason we came here in the first place, the plain of Jars.
Huge stone jar-shaped vessels are spread over a dozen major location in the vicinity of Phonsavan. Locals, hunters and gatherers
speak of many more. But what are these megalith containers for? They are dragged in site no 2 up a hill. A French archeologist
studies in 1935 over years these sites and concluded, they must have been funerary monuments, meaning, cut the body into pieces
and stuff the deceased inside, or the jars are used as container for his possessions. Something hard to believe. Here, a single
civilization flourished between 300 BC and 300 AD, that is for 1000 years, .  
Site no. 1,with about 250 jars the weight was calculated at 15 tons  
various opening- round and this is square
 
this one was broken by an American bomb and here Harun investigated, "we needed 5 men to get him out"
Artifacts found in and around the jars included beds from china, bronze figures from Vietnam, and ornaments from Thai- culture. This
allows us to conclude the civilization using the jars was highly developed and had trading links with their neighbors. But what they
were really for, remains a mystery. (If they would be for grain or rice storage why so many on one place? Why not next to the home
neatly placed?) It was amazing to look at the silent witnesses of the past. Nearer from our times we found more sinister artifacts. As
the Ho chi min trail is close the whole area was subject to carpet bombing by the US in this secret action war of whom the common
man in America or Europe knew nothing. All to stem Communism. Bomb craters, mines and other remains bear witness of this
inhumane activity. No one sue them yet for crimes against humanity.
 
Warning signs on the entrance. Has the US paid any money for their actions? Here New Zealand helps
 
The tourist office in Phonsavan MAG stone directing you
Mines advisory group, MAG stone, indicating where one can walk without being blown up.
 
Presents from the Sky for the people of Laos. There was never a war declared, nor did Laos do anything against the US.
 
American spoils of war next to our hotel shrapnel, small unfilled iron balls for more killing efficiency See the round holes on the rim? There are iron balls inside which when exploding spread farther and are more effective in killing and
wounding. We chased a doggie away who wanted to pee on a US machinegun next to the helmet. What a disgusting, not respecting
action that would have been! 
You see this man America? It is you who did that. An unexploded mine blasted his leg away and changed his life from a farmer to a
cripple. US, your guys who decide to wage war to reduce ammunition stockpiles and direct world event according to your plans, in
neglect of life and humanity, these impersonators of Satan himself, should be here to search for the left over's from their actions.
The only hope is our Almighty. He must deal with them severely. But we all should start to think realistically. There are always men
behind a war. Look for them, expose them, otherwise they continue what has been doing for the last century.
Arrange for wars, as it is in their benefits. Every bullet, bomb, missile cost
money and has to be replaced by better ones. The profit flows into their pockets, soaked with blood from the victims.
Monday 14-4-08 As our journey to the Xieng Khuang province took us a whole day, we therefore searched for a faster, an alternative route out of the
high plateau. Our map indicated a secondary route Southbound via Ban Man to Pakxan on the Mekong. Inquiring with the hotel boss
and another person, yes there was a road out. How long would it take manager?" He looked at JAMBO. "With your car maybe 6
hours." Is there anyone driving the route? Yes every other day a bus. We should have looked at it, but we did not.
The 6½ hours out was no road, not even a track sometime. Mud holes, and steep slippery narrow clay tracks up and down the
mountain where the vehicle just start to glide, no brakes hold. 6½ hours of tensioned nerves, hopes, prayers and concentrated
driving, no mistake otherwise we are in trouble. Not one error was permitted! "JAMBO so sorry " we apologized to a machine, when
the tires fell into another mud filled pit which we had to get through. Slowly driving ? You cannot as there is likeliness to get stuck.
One has to maintain a second gear speed. Would we have known what awaits us, we never take this route. There was no vehicle on
the road, no tire marks either. That made us more worried. And young men in civil dress, all had one thing in common. Machine guns
hanging from their shoulder belt. Army? Rebels? We did not know.
Four hours into driving, hill up hill down. Sporadically a farmers home, next by cassavas planted on the slopes. That gave hope again.
There must be vehicles coming, as they have to reach the market.  
we were always happy to see a few huts spectacular view when again up on a mountain pass  
This is no track to drive alone.  
The mud came over the bonnet and onto the wind screen Sometime no wooden bridges. Here we are happy we were almost out   Finally after 5 hours we, counting the minutes, we reached two (illegal?) logging camps. There is now a way out for sure. We met the
oncoming "bus" on the road. It was a 4 w/d ,ex- army vehicle, pained in yellow. He had on the rear tires extra thick chains mounted for
additional grip. Would we have seen this before we would have chosen the longer comfortable route back, that is for sure. It was the
worst trip for JAMBO of the whole expedition.
 
This is our JAMBO out of the "mess" in Pakxan and the "water for cash" festivity We convinced the boys to direct the water festivity concentrated to one place, that is our vehicle and earn some cash, which in return
will flow down as beer the throat again. It was a good idea they agreed and JAMBO got a small clean up.  
He earned no money only screams Thanks Almighty, the Mekong again
Since it was 3:00 pm we drove on Southbound and reached Savannakhet in the evening, happy to be here. The happy drive lucky
drunkards on motorcycles had added to our worries too. Near the timber camp on mud road in a curve came two guys on a
motorcycle in fast pace, much to fast to make it around. The machine, driver and rear sit companion took off from the high
embankment like ski jumpers straight into the rain filled ditch a 2meter below. The last we saw was legs stuck out of the water.
Hopefully they did not break their bones. Since another motorcycle followed them, their friend maybe, we drove on.
Before Savannakhet, a motorcycle, a man and woman, she sitting sideward's. Suddenly the motorcycle rear swung left and right,
while he was breaking. The women could not hold herself and fell onto the tarmac. He finally managed to stop. The rear tire had a
puncture that is why he slinger. JAMBOS brakes are excellent. A local vehicle would have likely run her over.
These kind of unusual experiences made us to decide getting out of Laos, like fleeing before a disaster struck.
Our final words?
Here they come: "We all know Laos is poor with all negative actions attached. Child prostitution and pornography is present over the
Mekong border to Thailand. "You can f... me every day if you double my salary" said the maid to our friend who worked many years
here. That is an exemption sure, but we saw young boys drinking beer including girls on the road, seeing them how some behave in
shorts and very small shorts, winding their bodies in the rhythm of songs from the radio,
gives rather the impression, there is not much distinction who will be the favor for tonight. And a NO is rather a "maybe yes". But we
could be hopefully wrong.
The 'Social realism" meaning communism, which rolled over the country between 1975 and 1990 changed culture and tradition. The
idea that a Lenin, Stalin or any other communist dictator is everything and God does not exists, that prayer is plain nonsense and all
Buddhist monks are parasites can only be thought for sometime, and to simple people. Man is more than what he sees only.
Communism, the idea of a Jew (Karl Marx) failed in Russia. No other political experiments cost so many lives, hook people on a
vodka bottle instead of a mosque, church, or other spiritual institution. Man needs something to look up, to hope for, if you take it from
him, nothing is left only desires and frustration if not fulfilled. The impact of Communism is seen here. We praise Myanmar, and the
decency, the integrity of its people, no matter how poor. I remember the praying woman before Buddha her handbag was open, as she
bought flowers and while praying Harun put silently a banknote into her bag, without she noticing. Will this increase
her devotion? It will be a confirmation of heir prayer. And who knows, maybe Buddha acted through the gesture of my hubbi?
Laos will revive, spirituality must come back, the youth need a "inner future" too.
But for now Laos needs international material help, we hope it pours in. We met the one leg farmer the other was blown away another the victim of the US.
He is no more a man. He cannot have children. We gave him little, but we should have given him the funds to go the Vientiane for an
artificial limb. All the way we though about it. It would have cost - so we read- US100.- only. If we sleep in the car we could safe the
funds again. But it was too late. Very sorry to you, although you will never know of our thoughts and regrets. It was the worry with the
road which made us to forget what had to be done. 
And to you, guys in Washington and Wall street we pay hearing aids out of our pockets. That you might listen to the monotone
tok tok of a crunch made from an iron pipe. The man is a victim of your actions!
our route through Laos
Tuesday15-4-08
We are on our way to Cambodia driving south. In every village, every town groups of youngsters dancing and splashing water. Pick up
trucks with big buckets, and kids on it, returning the cool fun. No one is upset, be it a pedestrian a motorcyclist or an
open car. This is new year and luck is splashed onto strangers too. Although when seeing JAMBO, some where not sure. Others
poured the full load.
Music and bright eyes, dancing and happiness. that is what a New Year is all about. No need to get drunk.  
waiting for the victims  
see how concentrated the "Shorty in Blue" waits Girls, we wish you all a bright future Late afternoon we arrived in Pakxe and put up in a hotel for the night.
Wednesday 16-4-08
After a sound sleep we left Pakxe towards the Cambodian border a 240 km away. The road was fine and progressed speedily and
reached the Laos custom barrier before noon. Showing them where to chop us out on the carnet it was a matter of 5 minutes.
Some still enjoyed the happy new year and danced with the girls in a tent nearby. The boss a young and kind guy put his signature
in the carnet while moving in Samba steps to Laos music. All were happy, we too. Are we not to see now another beautiful country
although with a recent tragic history?. The Laos immigration was 2 km further down the road. No problem, they chop us out and we
drove to the Cambodian side.
"Hello gentlemen and how are you" Harun was in good mood. " The immigration man checking the passports, finally commended:
" No problem you have a visa." With your car you got to see custom. "Where is the office?" "Over there under the trees." We looked
and yes in front of a wooden hut was a table, a few plastic chairs around, on one an uniformed man, the custom officer.
"Good afternoon Mr. Custom boss, here is our carnet for you." He did not look at it. "We are from Brunei and like to transit Cambodia
please." No reply. "Are we here talking to a wall or what?" "Sir would you please stamp the carnet, Harun open the page.
You see here Laos custom had chopped us out, now you have to chop us in." The man did not speak. Another traveler, a Cambodian
arrived at the scene." Sir would you please translate to the officer, that we like to transit Cambodia and need his approval. The reply
was terrible:." Your paper is not valid in Cambodia". Don't say that, we are from Brunei we are also South East Asian, and together
with Cambodia in several Institutions and organizations. "The car is not from ZULU hinterland, It is from Brunei, Brunei Darussalam..
Your Ambassador in Brunei confirmed to us, there is no problem to go into Cambodia." The other customer translated. But the officer
had an iron face. We went back to immigration, they were obviously not happy with this situation too. "Can you help please?" No, they
could not.
Harun went back to him. "No English " he said but pulled a green paper out of the drawer. "This Ministry of Finance, you go, OK."
" Can I get this document from you?" Harun show him money hoping it is possible.
"No" now he spoke a little English. All we did, the begging the smiling the upset show all was to no avail. This man refused JAMBO"S
entry into Cambodia. Consequences did not matter to him.
Back to Laos Immigration which had chopped us out in the passport. "Reverse the departure please the Cambodia custom man does
not allow the car in." "He is crazy" said one. Dear reader we had no visa for Laos as it was used, and the car could not go to
Cambodia. This was the situation in the bush of southern Laos. But they cancelled the exit stamp, and attached a small note for his
colleague for our departure somewhere else." Thank you!" we shacked hands. To Custom. The boss insisted first to dance with Harun
in the group of drunk and wet soaked women, which he had to obey. Only then, smiling like a child or someone which is very happy.
He commanded his officer: "Do it! Do it!"
Entrance chop into the carnet and we drove 240 km back to Pakxe. Luck with us, we were in southern Laos again, but had a whole
day and 500km wasted. Now we thought the situation over. We could not go to Cambodia from here, but could try from the Thai side
with help of our Embassy. "Shall we stay another night in Pakxe town?" Harun asked me." Better not we go out tonight." There is a
bridge and road to Thailand and we drove right on it, heading west to the border. Before we chop the passport and carnet out again,
Harun went over to the Thai side confirming whether we could cross with our carnet here. They had computers, that was a promising
sign. The boss came on a motorcycle. After checking our document he said the relieving words: "OK, no problem!" Now only we
cancelled our visa at the Laos side. "You have to pay overtime!" said the officer and show us a handwritten poster on the wall." After
4:00 pm the staff is exhausted from sitting, biro holding and concentrated study of documents. Therefore we had to pay B$5.- to get
out of Laos. This border is open until 8:00pm."Four hours overtime every day? hard working people.". By 7:30 pm the border documentation was completed, we were through, on one side upset, on the other happy to be out of Laos.
We travel first to Bangkok, inform our Embassy in Phnom Penh, which hopefully has ended the celebrations, perhaps they check the
situation out and if needed, are kind enough to get a permission for JAMBO to enter Cambodia. One would think the South East Asian
Countries are one family and movement is easy but here in the hinterland of north Cambodia sat an officer under trees who though
otherwise. Behaving like a stubborn child.  The "NO PASS" Cambodian border after 33 countries and 48.700 km Dear reader sorry for our diversion but we are heading west. Click Thailand if you like to follow our story.
|
Sponsors
 |
Supported by Tourism Board, Ministry of Industry & Primary Resources
|
